New overload protection circuit breaker for Performax/Jet 16-32 Drum Sander

Last weekend I was sanding a fairly light load of Spruce at 1/128-1/64" per pass when my overload breaker started tripping randomly. At first I thought I was taking off too much, but when it started tripping without passing a board through it I began to suspect the circuit breaker. The motor wasn't particularly hot, so I let it cool down for about 2 hours and tried again. Same result, so I removed the circuit breaker. It was rated at 16A.

I began Googling for a replacement breaker when I came across several forums that indicated Performax would only sell you a new motor, not the switch alone. I went to Home Depot and found a large, bulky15A motor overload fused box and wired it up just to get me going again. It worked fine, but I still want to find an OEM replacement. I plan to use this circuit breaker on my Grizzly planer, which doesn't have overload protection.

So, back to Google. I found the 4va64 at Grainger for $2 and is very similar to the original, at least by specs. I ordered it and wired it up--back in business (so far).

Update on side bending

Using my new HF infrared thermometer, I was able to measure the temp of the bending pipe as I heated it. The sweet spot seemed to be between 300 and 350 for 2mm Maple sides.

Replacement ball-bearings for Carter bandsaw guides

The bearings on my Carter bandsaw guides are about 10 years old and have been screaming like a banshee. So I called Carter Products to inquire about replacement bearings. Imagine my dismay when I was quoted $90 for the set of 10 bearings...OUCH! The whole upgrade kit only cost $150 when I bought it. Carter makes fine products, but I think $90 is excessive, so I began searching for an alternative source. The bearings are metric and measure 8 (ID) x 22 (OD) x7 (width) mm.

VXB Bearings (not affiliated) has a large variety of bearings in that size, so I settled on a 10-pack of 608ZZ for $4.95. They are carbon steel and rated up to 34,000 RPM, so if they last a year or two that's a great deal.

I received and installed the bearings. They fit perfectly; however, I am a little concerned about the seals and how long they will last. I guess for $5 it doesn't really matter.

Cen-tech (HF) Digital Mini Moisture Meter and Non-Contact Laser Thermometer

I have been wanting an infrared thermometer for both outdoor cooking and woodworking to measure the pliability of different woods at various temperatures of the bending pipe. This week I got a coupon for the HF Non-Contact Laser Thermometer for $27, so I decided to bite. My first impression is that it is reasonably well built and accurate.

While I was shopping at HF, I noticed a digital moisture meter next to the thermometer for $12.99. I have also been looking for one of these and I figure for $13, what the heck. I tested it on various pieces of wood around the shop. I have no idea how accurate it is, but it's better than clueless I guess.

Look, Maw, no hands!

I nearly lost a fingertip to my stationary belt sander. HINT: Always close the gap between the belt and table to the bare minimum to prevent the belt from abrading the table (2-3 mm) and so that fingers cannot be pulled down into that space.

I was shaping a narrow, thin piece of maple when the sander grabbed it, wedging my index finger between the sanding belt and table. I lost a little skin and most of my fingernail.

Viva la cabinet scraper

It was a very productive day in the workshop. I finished my guitar mold and solera, roughed out my deep-throat clamps, and fixed my go-bar clamping system. I also practiced bending sides using a 3" x 12" copper pipe that my friend gave me. I was bending Jatoba, and found that it scorches easily, especially when the flame is on. It looks like the optimal thickness for Jatoba sides is about 2mm.

So, to bend the sides, I heated the pipe with a propane torch until it was a dull black. Then I spritzed the sides with water and went to town. I found that it's best to keep moving the piece so it doesn't scorch.

The solera is a dished out panel in the shape of the guitar used while clamping the bracing to impart an arch to the soundboard and back. To build it, I first thought about using laminated paper cutaways to build up the correct shape. While this method may have been successful, I did not attempt it. Next, I thought I could create the desired profile by drawing a 1" grid on my solera board and drill down to various depths at the intersections to guide chiseling away waste material. This did not work due to equipment failure--the stop collar simply could not hold securely on the drill bit. Instead, I used a portable belt sander to rough out the shape, then used a cabinet scraper to smooth and finish.