Thursday, July 1, 2010

Making laminated wood binding

I was thinking about my next guitar, which will have walnut sides, spruce top and spalted sweet gum back. Since I want some bindings that contrast well with walnut, I decided to use curly maple.

I really like the look of wood bindings with thin strips of contrasting woods laminated to the bottom like those pictured below (LMI).

A friend of mine uses the excess strips trimmed from sides to make laminated bindings, one at a time. This seems like an overly difficult/complicated process.

I prefer to make them in bulk, so I decided to laminate a full side that was too thin (for a guitar) to a resawn billet of curly maple. I then ripped it into thin strips and thickness sanded them to 2mm. These are perfect for my needs, and easy to make. I got about 20 from one 4-inch wide side. I used Titebond II so that it will resist heat/moisture while bending.

You will need a bandsaw or tablesaw and thickness sander to use this method. A jointer is also nice, but you can generally perform jointing operations on a thickness sander too. You could use a tablesaw to rip the board, but the blade kerf wastes a lot of material and you can't resaw wide material. I don't recommend it.

The stages below show the general concept.



  1. Laminate two pieces of contrasting materials. The thicker piece should be about 1/4" thick x 3"+ x 32"+ with quarter-sawn grain. The thinner piece can be any thickness, but you should try to make it slightly thicker than the desired final thickness. Grain orientation on the thinner piece is less critical, but you can make it quarter-sawn also (or not). If you understand wood movement due to moisture content, feel free to adjust for grain patterns. Glue them together using a water/heat resistant glue like Titebond II or III and clamp with pressure distributed evenly over the glued surface area. 
  2. Sand the thin side to desired thickness. If you are using a pre-thicknessed wood or fiber veneer, there is no need to sand further.
  3. If desired, add another layer. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
  4. On a bandsaw, rip lengthwise strips slightly wider than 1/8". Always rip with thin laminations facing up, so the blade won't tear them from the main substrate.
  5. Sand both sides of strips to ~2mm or 0.10". Most thickness sanders will not work well under 1/8". I use a backer board, such as a piece of plywood or MDF.

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